JANICE GOES TO DETROIT, 2019

2019 has been a year of firsts, as I embarked on my "tour of Americana," making an effort to travel outside my usual routine of San Francisco, New York, and Taipei. So far I've managed to eat at Waffle House in Florida (but missed out on Walmart), drive through a storm in the South, and spend a very sweaty day at the Sacramento State Fair; and last June I went to Detroit for four days.

Casual curiosity took me there, but the city surprised me in playing host to one of my favorite trips so far. What was once Paris of the West has been through decades of complicated changes, so I felt some responsibility in getting to know the city beyond its latest hot spots. Some of the best parts of the visit came from wandering through old neighborhoods, getting lost in their tall grass, and sharing stories with locals; but hot spots they do have as well, and should you find yourself in Motor City, here are some of my favorites:

1  The Siren Hotel
A revival of the Wurlitzer Building, originally built in 1926 as "the world's largest music house." Charmingly clad in antiqued corals + greens, this hotel in Downtown Detroit is fitted out with playful terrazzo sinks + mermaid blankets (complete with a bouncy pompon trim) designed by local art students. Wake up to Populace Coffee in the lobby—featuring a delicious beet-matcha latte—and then buy one of those blankets for yourself at the best hotel gift shop ever!
1509 Broadway St

2  UFO Factory
The night we stopped by, the DJs were spinning Tito Puente with a Japanese sci-fi film playing on a huge screen, behind 3 lone people dancing as hard as they could. If you enjoy feeling totally out of your element, this is the spot for you.
2110 Trumbull Ave

3  Dilla's Delights
Operated by hip-hop producer J Dilla's family, this no-frills shop is home to organic donuts in flavors like Brewster Banana Pudding + Silvercup Sweet Potato. And at only $2 a pop, or 3 for $5—what?!
Did you know: "Donuts" is a nickname for mini 7-inch records, as well as the name of the last album J Dilla made during his lifetime.
242 John R St

4  People Mover
Yes, that's the official name of this mini train! They call it "transportation," but seeing as how it barely goes anywhere, I was surprised to see that people actually had monthly passes for it. For visitors though, it's an easy way to get an overview of Downtown Detroit from 45 feet up; it's only 75¢ and in 14 minutes it brings you right back to where you got on. A productive diversion while you're waiting for your table at San Morello.
Downtown Detroit

5  Détroit is the New Black
Driven by the need to create conversation about the future of the city's community, this clothing store and sleek coffee space features upscale Detroit gear and highlights local creators + designers of color. Get to know the Detroit-native associates, and they'll proudly share their favorite hot spots + snacks.
1430 Woodward Ave

6  Lady of the House
We had a nice dinner here too, but I'll always remember it for the late-night cookies + milk we had at the bar (they're open till midnight). Go for those, and then walk over to UFO Factory!
1426 Bagley St

7  Motor City Wine
How did I miss that Detroit is the birthplace of Motown (+ techno)! (Did you know: Motor City → Motor Town → Motown!) Aretha Franklin, Smokey Robinson, the Supremes, etc. etc. all got their start here! With so many music venues in the city we had a hard time deciding where to go, but Motor City Wine got the local vote for "I go there even by myself!" Super low key—no bouncer, no cover—just grab a glass of wine and get up close with musicians like keyboardist Ian Finkelstein jamming with friends on drums + jazz flutes. No cliques or pretension, just friendly people enjoying good music.
1949 Michigan Ave

8  The Heidelberg Project
This outdoor art environment began in 1986, when artist Tyree Guyton returned home to Heidelberg Street and found that the neighborhood had been abandoned in the wake of violence and poverty. He gathered the mementos left behind to create what is now a massive and (at one time) controversial open-air museum involving polka-dotted houses, collections of disfigured toys, and clocks to remind you that "Your time is now."
3600 Heidelberg St

9  Parks & Rec Diner
Housed in a castle, the 40-year home of the City of Detroit's Parks & Recreation Department-cum-restaurant has been updated with custom chessboard tabletops and park benches. The menu has plenty for the locavore who squeals at the idea of fancy toast + edible flowers, but the black pepper bread is the real star!
1942 W Grand River Ave

10  Trinosophes
A reading room, music venue, and all-around mellow space to take in a slow afternoon, featuring Algerian-French-Michiganian pastries by Warda Pâtisserie. Savor a baghrir in a vintage mid-century chair, and then discover new old music at Peoples Records next door.
1464 Gratiot Ave

11  Evening Bar
Hidden away underneath the Shinola Hotel, there's only a sidelong glance to indicate that you've found this little den. Feel free to stroll through the hotel with your cocktail, and maybe grab a bite in the "Living Room," but watch out—the drinks are sneakily strong!
1400 Woodward Ave